Written by Per Ekenberg, Founder & Designer
My journey with Ekenberg Scandinavia has been shaped by working alongside master Norwegian goldsmiths and learning the nuances of traditional craftsmanship. Over time, many of our customers have reached out with questions about the difference between solid gold and plated pieces. I created this guide to share our practical insights and gemmological understanding, helping you make a thoughtful choice for your collection.
Solid Gold vs Gold-Plated Jewellery
How to Avoid Being Misled When Buying Gold Jewellery
When searching for the perfect piece of jewellery, it is easy to get confused by industry jargon. Terms like "gold-plated", "gold vermeil", "gold-filled", and "solid gold" are often used interchangeably. Many buyers assume plated pieces offer the same quality and longevity as real gold, only to end up disappointed when the golden layer wears off after just a few months of use.
At Ekenberg Scandinavia, we believe in empowering you to make informed decisions. Here is a clear breakdown of what gold plating actually means, how it compares to solid gold, and what to consider before making a purchase.
1. What Is Gold-Plated Jewellery?
Gold-plated jewellery is not made of gold throughout. Instead, the core consists of an inexpensive base metal—typically brass, copper, or silver—which is coated with an extremely thin layer of gold using an electrochemical process (electroplating).
This gold layer is often only a few micrometres thick—less than one-hundredth the width of a human hair.
- Advantage: Low production cost, making it affordable up front.
- Disadvantage: The thin gold layer wears off quickly when exposed to skin friction, water, perfumes, and clothing.
2. Why Does Gold Plating Fade?
Because the gold finish is merely a thin surface layer, the underlying base metal will eventually be exposed.
- Daily Wear and Tear: Friction against skin and fabric gradually strips away the gold layer.
- Oxidation: If the base metal underneath is brass or copper, the piece can react with air and moisture, turning your skin green or black once the gold coating erodes.
- Moisture Exposure: Water, sweat, lotion, and perfume accelerate the degradation process significantly.
Purchasing gold-plated jewellery often means buying a product with a short lifespan.
3. Solid Gold: An Investment Built to Last
When you choose solid gold, the entire piece is crafted from a genuine gold alloy. This means there is no surface coating to rub off, peel, or change colour over time.
Craftsmanship and Durability
In contrast to gold-plated jewellery—which features a base metal core covered by a thin gold layer—solid gold from Ekenberg Scandinavia consists of a solid gold alloy throughout. While thin surface coatings wear off within months, solid gold offers exceptional durability crafted to last for generations. It remains completely unaffected by daily wear, water, and perfumes.
Retained Value and Skin Safety
From a financial perspective, gold-plated pieces hold no underlying precious metal value once the coating degrades. Solid gold, on the other hand, retains its intrinsic commodity value over time. Additionally, as outer plated layers wear down, exposed base metals often trigger allergies. Solid gold remains fully hypoallergenic and safe for sensitive skin.
4. How to Identify the Difference Before You Buy
Hallmarks & Stamps: Solid gold carries official purity hallmarks (e.g., 585 for 14-karat or 750 for 18-karat gold). Stamps such as "GP" (Gold Plated) or "GE" (Gold Electroplated) indicate a surface plating.
Price Point: If a substantial piece of gold jewellery is priced very low, it is almost certainly plated. Solid gold carries a commodity value that makes bargain-basement pricing impossible.
Product Descriptions: Read the fine print carefully. Phrases like "gold finished", "gold dipped", or "18K gold plated" all signify that the piece is not solid gold.
5. Scandinavian Craftsmanship Made to Endure
At Ekenberg Scandinavia, we craft jewellery centred on sustainability, timeless design, and uncompromised quality. We believe jewellery should never be a disposable accessory, but a lasting investment designed to hold memories and be passed down through generations.
Ready to invest in pieces that retain their brilliance for a lifetime? Explore our collection of handcrafted solid gold jewellery.
Summary
In summary, choosing solid gold over gold-plated jewellery is an investment in durability, value, and lasting beauty. While gold plating offers an affordable short-term option, the surface layer inevitably wears away, exposing base metals that can tarnish, corrode, or cause skin irritation. Solid gold remains genuine throughout, retaining its intrinsic value, resisting daily wear, and remaining safe for sensitive skin for generations.
Key Takeaways
- Longevity: Solid gold never loses its colour or peels, whereas gold plating wears off with friction, water, and daily use.
- Value: Solid gold retains real commodity value over time, while plated items hold no underlying precious metal value.
- Skin Safety: Solid gold is hypoallergenic, whereas exposed base metals in worn plated jewellery often cause allergies and skin discolouration.